Preserving tradition in every drop: The travelling French distiller
Meet the fourth-generation mobile Armagnac distiller and his 110-year-old copper still called Marie-Jeanne
Marc Saint-Martin’s mobile copper still must maintain a constant heat 24 hours a day to produce a good ArmagnacDomaine Saint-Marc / Africa Studio Shutterstock
Âé¶¹´«Ã½Ó³» often confuse a bouilleur de cru with a bouilleur ambulant.
The first refers to an owner of fruit trees who has permission to distil, while the second is a mobile distiller.
The mix-up comes from the wrong assumption that fruit tree owners also own alembics, the stills used to distil alcohol.
Marc Saint-Martin breaks the mould and is both – a bouilleur de cru ambulant (mobile distiller) roaming along roads to turn the fruits of many producers into alcohol.
Maintaining constant heat is the key
He is the fourth generation of Saint-Martins to wander from cellar to cellar throughout the Gers department in south-west France.
“T³ó±ð bouilleur’s job is about maintaining constant heating and making sure that a regular constant flow of liquor is exiting the machine,†says Mr Saint-Martin, whose alembic exclusively produces Armagnac.
The distillery season opens around late October. Government rules ban the activity from March 31 but, in practice, it tends to end in late January or early February.
The timeframe is chosen in an effort to make the most of the grape-harvest season and use the non-AOP-labelled white wine that would otherwise have spoilt when the hot weather returned in the spring.
His 110-year-old copper still is called Marie-Jeanne
The Saint-Martin family has a list of around 60 Armagnac-producing clients whom Mr Saint-Martin visits at specific dates to offer his help. Some of them have been working with them for 50 years.
He is an unmissable sight on the horizon, with his tractor piercing the flattened landscapes of Gers.
Behind him, the tractor tows Marie-Jeanne, a 110-year-old, three-tonne alembic, placed on a trailer.
Its Marie-Jeanne name was given in honour of an acquaintance of Mr Saint-Martin’s grandfather.
The 15th-century technology it is based on has never failed.
Marie-Jeanne is 3m high and composed of two parts.
Two cylindrical copper vats are connected through a U-shaped tube with another similar cylindrical vat connected higher above, called the colonne à distiller.
Marie-Jeanne is installed a day ahead of distillation, filled with water and preheated for four to six hours.
The wine is introduced into the cuve de charge (loading tank), the highest point of the alembic.
“I put my hand around here but I am not too sure why. The knowledge has been passed on in my family throughout the generations,†said Mr Saint-Martin.
The spirit that flows out of Marie-Jeanne’s spout is then bottled.
Marc Saint-Martin is the fourth generation of Saint-Martins to wander from cellar to cellar throughout the Gers department in south-west FranceDomaine Saint-Marc
The job only last three months a year
Each season, Marie-Jeanne produces around 250,000 litres of Armagnac, one twelfth of the region’s total, according to Mr Saint-Martin’s rough estimates.
There are no courses or training schemes to become a bouilleur de cru ambulant.
The profession exists only thanks to early retirees willing to learn the craft. Their number is unknown.
To become a mobile distiller, you need a clean criminal record and to fill out the necessary paperwork.
However, the alembic can cost €200,000.
Very few youngsters who have had work experience with Mr Saint-Martin have turned the craft into a sustainable long-term career, as it only lasts for three months a year.
“Distilling is a passion. We do it to keep the tradition alive, but we do not earn enough to live off it. It is equivalent to the wage of a vine pruner,†said Mr Saint-Martin.