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Know your cheeses and their seasons: which to eat in France in June

Several cow’s cheeses are recommended as summer begins

Will you be trying any of the cheeses recommended for this month?
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Cheese is to be enjoyed year-round in France and, similarly to fruits and vegetables, cheeses follow a seasonal pattern with certain types being fresher or tastier at specific points of the year. 

Online cheesemonger covers these trends, which we review as part of a monthly series

Cow’s milk returns triumphant 

June heralds the arrival of summer on the cheese calendar. 

“Cheese lovers and connoisseurs alike will turn to uncooked pressed cheeses that reach full maturity,” across the warmer months, the website states.

Certain goat and soft-style cheeses are also good in the warmer months.

However, it is largely cow’s cheeses – that dominate the colder winter months but are less frequent in spring – that reach their peak this month.

The four cheeses recommended in June are: 

Emmental 

An extremely well-known cheese hailing from the Swiss valleys, the lighter flavour of the cheese compared to stronger winter variants makes it popular in the warmer months. 

Emmental is a specific geographical indicator in Switzerland, meaning certain rules have to be followed by producers to be granted the ‘AOP’ or ‘AOC’ labels alongside the cheese.

However several variants exist in Europe based on Swiss Emmental, which emulate the cheese in taste and appearance.

Similar cheeses including Jarlsberg in Norway, and Maasdam in the Netherlands, which can both be found on French shelves. 

France itself produces several Emmental-style cheeses, including those from the Alps near the Swiss border which have their own geographic protection.

To be sold under the ‘label rouge’ (a mark of quality) the cheese must be made from unpasteurised milk from specific mountainous communes and aged for at least 12 weeks.

According to a 2022 study, Emmental-style cheeses are the most-consumed in France, with over 145,000 tonnes eaten per year (compared to around 50,000 tonnes of Camembert). 

This is largely because the cheese is used as a component of other foods such as sandwiches, salads, or shredded or grated for use in dishes such as pasta. 

Gorgonzola 

The next cheese recommended is Italian gorgonzola, a blue cheese from the north of the country.

Similarly used as a component for many dishes including pasta and pizza, this cow’s milk cheese hails from Gorgonzola, a town near Milan. 

An urban legend says a cheesemaker from the town placed some curds in a vat to be used to make some cheese, but forgot about them after rushing off to meet his lover. 

Months later, he discovered the cheese alongside the mould formed within, tasted it, and decided to produce more cheese this way.

In the modern day, it comes in both ‘dolce’ and ‘piccante’ – depending on the strength and pungency of the cheese – and can be creamy or crumbly. 

Often made with parsley or other herbs, it is said to have a slightly nutty texture alongside the sharpness of the blue cheese. 

In France, it remains popular alongside other blue cheeses, although is rarely served alone as part of a cheese course due to its texture.

Instead, it is a base ingredient of a classic four cheese pizza, or used in pasta, salads (either as a topping or to make a dressing), in gnocchi, or with polenta.

Tomme de Savoie

Crossing the border back to France, Tomme de Savoie is an Alpine cheese made from unpasteurised cow’s milk. 

An ancient cheese from the area, it is mild compared to most others produced in the region, and has a short aging period (around 10 weeks). 

In 2017 around 7,000 tonnes were produced, making it less common than many other Alpine variants. 

It has benefited from an IGP label since 1996. 

There are around 700 producers of the cheese, but only around 30 caves where the product can be aged in to achieve its IGP label. Likewise, only around 30 ‘artisanal’ producers of the cheese exist. 

Compared to the previous entries on this list, Tomme is more likely to be served as part of a separate cheese course or eaten after a meal as opposed to being a component of a dish. 

Cancoillotte

Rounding off the cheeses recommended for June is Cancoillotte, a runny and almost liquid cheese from eastern France. 

Produced from metton (another type of cheese from the area), it is a melted version of the former. 

Versions sold in shops can come in several variations – traditionally, a little water or cream is added but industrial versions can add butter or spices to alter its texture, sweetness, and smoothness. 

Only recently receiving IGP status in 2022, the cheese is lower in fat content than most others, only around 8%-12%. 

Despite around 5,700 tonnes being produced per year, it may not be surprising if you have not heard of it, as 90% of the cheese is consumed in the eastern areas of France from where it originates.

It is usually enjoyed spread onto a piece of bread as part of a sandwich, or left to have other items (usually bread) dipped into it.