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Our French gîte: A fortified house far from the beaten track

Tragic event led to momentous decision for owner Zandra McGillivray

Arial view of Château de Sothonod
The 10th-Century Château de Sothonod became Zandra McGillivray's home in 2018
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“It’s a special place. Special in the English sense of the word – out of the ordinary,” says Zandra McGillivray, the Franco-British owner of 10th-Century fortified house Château de Sothonod in Songieu (Ain).

“Here we are in la France very profonde,” she laughs, an area between Lyon and Geneva connected by no major roads. At 900m, winters can be snowy. 

Summers attract hikers, nature-lovers and occasional cyclists. 

The Tour de France often passes close by after tackling the Grand Colombier mountain, 25 kilometres south.

In the late 1990s, Zandra and her husband Alexander were looking for a second home in the Tessin region, the south-east part of Switzerland and that borders Italy.

However, they were persuaded to look at Chateau de Sothonod instead when they met its owners Marc de Seyssel de Sothonod and his wife Jeanne-Marie Guichard, then 84 and 79, through a mutual friend. 

The couple were trying to sell the property, which had been in the Seyssel family for six centuries, and the four bonded over a shared appreciation for history and heritage buildings.

“You are exactly the people we’re looking for,” Ms Guichard told them. 

They bought it in 2000, initially spending weekends and summers there, and holding occasional exhibitions of Zandra’s pottery.

It became the couple’s primary residence in 2018 when they retired.

Tragedy struck

A year later, however, tragedy struck – Zandra’s husband died.

She was faced with two choices: sell the chateau or turn it into a chambre d’hôtes

She chose the latter… and opened two weeks before the first confinement was ordered by President Emmanuel Macron in March 2020. 

“Talk about timing!” she laughs.

Renovation efforts followed – mainly replacing the old oil heating system with a state-subsidised heat pump.

Château de Sothonod has five guest rooms, with an additional bunk bedroom. Each of the two floors have their own bathrooms and sitting rooms. 

Zandra and her new partner Guy live in a separate wing.

The ground floor has a kitchen with all amenities, a dining room with a fireplace, an entrance hall and a conservatory. 

There are also 12 acres of fields, woodland and gardens, with a trampoline and swings to keep young visitors entertained, as well as a 20-metre heated swimming pool in use from mid-May to October, lists the website.

A particular hit with guests are the vegetarian meals that Zandra prepares (with 48 hours’ notice) for those who request them.

Products are locally-sourced and as environmentally friendly as possible. A whole meal ranges from €28 to €40, depending on the menu.

Guests at Château de Sothonod are often history and nature enthusiasts, and Zandra enjoys giving them a bit of background to the property. 

Scars of the Revolution

One story which invariably keeps her audience rapt concerns the nobleman who lived in the chateau during the Revolution. 

Initially seized and his home set on fire, he was subsequently released when villagers petitioned for his life. 

By the time he returned, however, the roof had collapsed and the property remained a ruin for 200 years.

“You’re struck by the chateau’s history as soon as you walk in,” Zandra says, referring to its ancient towers, chapel and a façade renovated in 1800.

To readers considering opening their own chambre d’hôtes, Zandra advises reflecting first on their personality type.

“I am a very sociable person. I love welcoming people and telling them all this stuff,” she says, insisting this is a prerequisite for any host.

In terms of keeping the chateau warm for guests, Zandra says only that heating bills are “high, obviously”, not helped by the fact she also runs ovens for her pottery work.

Maintaining the grounds also takes money and time. 

Here, however, she has deviated from Mr de Seyssel de Sothonod’s methods and removed certain overgrown trees that were causing quarrels with neighbours. 

“I think Mr de Seyssel felt he ought to perpetuate the family’s history to the nth degree, hence his reluctance to tackle those trees.

“That was his life’s calling. For me it is more about preserving memories.”