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Restaurant recommendation: ‘Histoire Ancienne’ bistro in Calais

Patrick and Claire Comte's ‘Histoire Ancienne’ bistro is far from ancient history, although they have been running it since 1996. However, it’s not far from Auguste Rodin’s ‘Burghers of Calais’ sculpture commemorating a much more historical event – the 1346 siege of Calais and surrender to the British during the 100 Years’ war. 

The bistro does, however, have a well-established feel to it. Although housed in a featureless modern block, its frontage and interior are splendid art deco and traditional. Quirky touches inside include old menus from famous restaurants like Le Taillevent and Paul Bocuse, and a display case of collars through the ages. 

Our dinner started impressively: bread toasted only on one side so that it was both soft and crunchy, served with delightfully unctuous salmon rillettes as an amuse-bouche. 

The €29 menu is absolutely traditional: oeuf poché et Saucisse de Morteau with vinaigrette de lentilles, raisins et crème moutardée, followed by Fricassée de rognons de veau à la graine de moutarde with a scattering of tiny, delicious Shimeji mushrooms; and a dessert of Vacherin aux mures/figues – all perfectly executed by chef Patrick. He cleverly mixes gastronomic and traditional family cuisine so that simple bourgeois dishes are elevated by his original, more aristocratic touches.

Judging by the house red, a €29 2020 Chateau Frontenac Bordeaux, it’s probable that Claire the Sommelier’s wine list is good value too.

Perfect for lunch/dinner to fit in with your channel crossing to old Blighty. (20 rue Royale. ). Stay the night round the corner at Benoit’s chambre d’hôtes Le Richelieu for a bargain €60 (free parking in the street outside).  

The Rolls-Royce of oysters

Taste buds are tricky blighters. For example, different types of oysters seem to have more in common rather than any pronounced differences. Obviously, you can see the difference in size between, say, a No 2 or No 4. Illogically the smaller the number, the bigger the oyster, so a No 2 is 86 to 120grams whereas a No 4 is 46 to 65grams. But can you taste the difference between a Fines de Claire, a Creuses de Bretagne, a Saint-Vaast Le Tatihou or a Gillardeau? 

Like wine, oysters have their own vocabulary to describe taste and texture. Not quite as far-fetched as ‘a little bit of cigar-box, ash, and musty library book on the nose’ but oystery words like ‘custardy’, ‘silky’, ‘briny’, ‘buttery’ or ‘earthy’ might help to distinguish a delicate, slightly sweet and fruitier Fines de Claire from the plumper, meatier and nuttier Gillardeau. Whichever the oyster, all you need is a Sauce Mignonette – nothing to do with the mignonette flower, but simply a mix of finely chopped shallots in a red wine vinegar. A soupçon of this added to your oyster will help it on its way.

With about 2,000 miles of coast, France is Europe’s largest oyster producer. It has a long history. At in Carentac (Finistère, Brittany), five generations of the Madec family can trace their business back to 1898. Similarly, five generations of the Gillardeau family in Charente-Maritime, who claim to be the Rolls Royce of oysters, also go back to 1898. You’ll know you’re eating one of theirs as every Gillardeau oyster has a laser-engraved trademark ‘G’ on its shell. 

Bon appétit.