麻豆传媒映画

Meet the producers

Erick Schreiber produces biodynamic champagne from his own 6.5 hectare vineyard in Champagne, 45km south of Troyes in the Vall茅e de la Seine. 鈥淚 can鈥檛 explain why, but I always wanted to make wine. Ever since I was a kid, it was my dream, even though my family have nothing to do with wine production. So when I left school I trained at college, and in 1987 I planted my vines and set up my own production.鈥�

He now produces 35,000 bottles of Champagne Schreiber per year, most of it sold in France both to hospitality professionals and the general public, although he also exports extensively.

He goes to several large wine fares as well every year in order to publicise his wines, which are 鈥榖iodynamic鈥� 鈥� which is close but not exactly the same thing as being organic. 鈥楤iodynamic鈥� viticulture means cultivating wines according to principles laid out by Rudolf Steiner (who also set up Steiner Schools) 鈥� which treats soil fertility and plant growth as interrelated.

Biodynamic viticulture focusses on the use of compost and manure instead of artificial chemicals. It works in harmony with the lunar calendar, and uses herbal and mineral additive for field sprays. Overall, the idea is to harness the forces of nature in a holistic way in order to produce the best, most natural crops whilst also taking care of the soil.

The aim is to connect rich, bio-diverse soil to the light and the rain which fall from the sky. So far, so good, but some elements of the theory stray into spiritual, mystical and astrological territory, leading critics to scoff at the method. In blind tastings, however, biodynamic wines consistently outdo wines produced by more mainstream methods.

鈥淲e went biodynamic in 1990, and it works for us,鈥� says Erick Schreiber. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 want to say biodynamic wines are better; they鈥檙e just different. More expressive, more drinkable.鈥� His wines are Demeter certified biodynamic as well as organic, making them as natural as a wine can be.

Erick Schreiber is proud of them, and also of his son Ga毛l who plans to take over the business. Many people drink Champagne at Christmas and New Year, but he says that it can be enjoyed all year round. 鈥淐hampagne can be drunk at any occasion, from ap茅ros right through to pudding,鈥� he says. 鈥楢nd most of it can be drunk at any time of the day!鈥�

Artisan cheese of the month: Brie 迟谤耻蹿蹿茅

When the cheeseboard comes out at a New Year party, the canniest of gourmands around the table will seek out the shining beacon of seasonal indulgence: Brie 迟谤耻蹿蹿茅.

This luxurious blend of delicately creamy Brie de Meaux, which has been sliced horizontally and slathered with an unctuous blend of cream or mascarpone and chopped black truffle is an indulgent, if acquired taste and very rich.

For an artisanal touch, try the truffled cheeses made by Gilles C茅n茅ri at La Cr猫merie Royale 鈥� the family has boasted a Master Cheesemaker for three generations. Their twist is the use of olive oil and a little white truffle.

Local speciality: Paupiettes de Veau

Paupiettes de veau are veal olives (rolled or stuffed veal fillets) that can be cooked and served in an array of sauces. A la Normande is the Normandy version 鈥� made with onion, tomato, herbs, butter and flour, cider (or wine) and cream from Isigny. Available to buy ready to reheat from